Between Luxor and Aswan
Most people see the temples between Aswan and Luxor by cruise ship -- nearly every tour includes a three or four day cruise of the Nile with stops at Edfu, Esna, and Kom Ombo Temples included.
Since we didn't have a cruise on our trip -- I just didn't want to spend a few days on a boat -- we travelled between Aswan and Luxor by convoy. APparently, travel on the road between the two cities is carefully monitored and they send tourists along with many tourist police.
So, we stopped at Edfu and Kom Ombo, but we didn't see Esna -- our convoy was heading straight through and we would have had to wait for the next one before being alowed to make the rest of the trip. Probably it would have been fine, but given that it would have rquired quite a bit of arranging to ensure taht we didn't head off on our own, we opted out.
There isn't much on the road -- just a few tour busses and us. Because we had to travel with everyone at the same time, these two temples were the only time we really felt crowded at the sites. Some of the places we'd visited, we'd been the only people there -- Dashur and Maidum, for example.
The temples, though, are stunning. Edfu is perhaps the best preserved temple we had seen so far, and Kom Ombo had a strange, double-barrel design to dedicate it to two different gods.
And of course, driving was a treat! Any time we ventured out on the roads without Mr. Mohammad, it was an adventure!!